9 Prime, the N. High St. steakhouse, wants a second chance. They know they messed up. They know they were trying to be something West Chester is not. They know they came on too strong with their massive VIP list and then under-delivered when you finally did get in, but they can change. They know they can be the restaurant you want them to be – a place you can go for a nice night out. A place where you can enjoy a post-work cocktail without fighting your way to the bar or worrying your drink may come served in a fish bowl. A place where you are more blown away by the food than the check.
How do I know all this? A few weeks ago, I had dinner with 9 Prime’s new General Manager Scott Zoccolillo. Before coming to High St., Scott spent seven years crisscrossing the region in pursuit of superior dining experiences at places like Lowland in Charleston, SC, Del Frisco Steakhouse in Philadelphia, and Nectar in Berwyn. By the time the GM position opened he was sick of traveling. He wanted to spend more time with his wife and four kids; still, he didn’t jump at first. He had dined at 9 Prime. He saw what we saw.
“I need your okay to make changes,” he told me he told the owners during his interview.
Change 1: Loosen up
“It was very unapproachable,” Scott said of his initial impression. So, among the first things he did was relax the dress code – really, relax the dress code. The language on the website has been modified to eliminate all but the most basic requirements. “We request no baseball caps, gym attire, strong perfumes, or colognes,” it says. Pretty much the only thing not allowed is vulgar or political tees. This went for the staff as well. Gone is the suit and tie requirement for managers and bartenders, in its place a black button-down (better to serve you an espresso martini with) and nice pants.
They are also making a concerted effort to connect with residents. They recently held a Community Warehouse Project fundraiser and would like to do more. “We should help,” said Scott, encouraging local high schools and other groups to reach out. In another nod to loosening up, 9 Prime participated in its first Restaurant Fest. The $6 espresso martinis were a hit, so was the casual vibe.
“We’ve become much easier to talk to,” said Scott.
Change 2: Tighten up
9 Prime can seat up to 350 people but they are, in their words, “strategically restricting capacity” until they can guarantee the overall dining experience. In Scott’s opinion, scope was one of the big reasons for missed expectations and long waits.
“I would have never have opened the whole restaurant,” he said.
One of the biggest differences between Philadelphia and West Chester or even King of Prussia and West Chester is the talent pool. West Chester has a lot of wait staff applicants but few true professionals. This means more time must be spent on education.
“Now that I am here, it’s a big focus,” said Scott. By his standards, about 50 percent of the staff is well educated, 25 percent is working its way up, and 25 percent is still learning. Those in the latter two groups have had their table load cut – for now.
“We will have the best-educated staff,” said Scott, who along with new Head Chef Jacob Altemous holds monthly wine and food pairing events for staff, but until then full capacity will have to wait. “We are going to shrink down and focus on the experience,” he said.
“We can’t go back. We can only learn from where we’ve been.”
9 Prime General Manager Scott Zoccolillo
Change 3: Elevate the dining game but not the prices.
9 Prime ownership hired Jacob, Executive Sous at Philadelphia’s Urban Farmer, after parting ways with celebrity chef Fabio Viviani this summer. When the celebrity left the building, so did the corporate relationships he brought with him. This has allowed Jacob to negotiate better purchasing deals bringing overhead down and helping to lower menu prices.
He’s also working to make the menu more approachable. He’s lightened up the charred octopus salad adding chorizo and Tuscan kale, brought in his signature Maple Glazed Pork Belly (wouldn’t have thought myself a fan, but I definitely was), and worked to elevate the non-steak entrees. No reason your salmon-loving friend shouldn’t also have an amazing meal.
But, don’t kid yourself, you come to 9 Prime for the steak. So Chef Jacob has also worked to elevate the dry-age beef program. For up to 50 days, he cures slabs of butchered beef in a temperature and humidity-controlled environment. The results? A more tender, flavor-rich steak. I tried the 16 oz dry-aged bone-in Kansas City strip. It was my favorite of the night.
They also upgraded the wine program, something Scott, an Advanced Sommelier, is very excited about. “Our wine program will be unparalleled,” he said.
As we sipped our drinks, I asked Scott, in his opinion, what is the ideal 9 Prime experience?
He urged diners not to overthink it. “It’s a great place to put a whole bunch of apps on the table and just enjoy each other’s company,” he said. “We can be between the everyday place and the celebration place.”
He and Jacob both encourage the wine and beef aficionados to come with their questions. While they can’t be at every table, they are certainly happy to chat with fans. “We both love to nerd out,” Scott shared.
He also knows this is his one shot to get you to give them another look. “We can’t go back. We can only learn from where we’ve been,” said Scott.
Tip: Looking for a more affordable way to reconnect with 9 Prime? Try the Prix Fixe menu available Tuesday – Thursday for just $69/per person or one of the new multi-course wine dinners held roughly once a month. Just not the Opus One Wine dinner. That one’s not for the faint of wallet.
Originally published on Dec. 13, 2024
This story was part of a longer West Chester newsletter featuring all the news and events of the week. Curious what else is going on? Subscribe now to get the full story. New issues come out on Fridays!